Eyup and the Golden Horn

Eyup and the Golden HornEstablished at time of the conquest, Eyup was Istanbul's first Ottoman Turkish settlement. The district is located beyond the city walls on the south bank of the Golden Horn and takes its name from the tomb of Eyyub al Ensari, a companion of the prophet Mohammed, who is believed to have died there during the Muslim siege of Istanbul in the 7th century.
Eyup began to develop shortly after the conquest. The first tangible sing of this were the tomb that Sultan Mehmed, the Conqueror, had built over the grave of Eyyub el-Ensari after his mentor, Aksemseddin, saw the place in a dream and beside it a mosque. The first settlers were from Bursa and the first eight neighborhoods given the names Cami-i Kebir, Kasim Cavus, Uluca Baba, Abdulvedud, Sofular, Otagcibasi, Fethi Celebi and Mehmed Bey.

The most intense period of development occurred during the Kanuni (sultan Süleyman) period in the 16th century. As well as the mosques, schools, fountains, tombs, hamam (turkish bath) and alms kitchen that suddenly appeared, a succession of mansions and pavilions began to line the shores. The Tomb of Eyup el-Ensari, commonly known as "Eyup Sultan Türbesi", has changed little over the years and occupies a central place in community life today, just as it did in the past.

Besides the ceremonies of the sultans, one of the most striking features of Ottoman times was the girding of swords at Eyup Sultan. The ceremony, which was performed to prayers, had a religious - spiritual quality and served to recall the significance of the new sultan's standing. However, the tradition probably dates from before the conquest. The power of the head priest at the Leon Makelos monastery which was sited here in the Byzantine period, included girding the emperor, military commander and nobles as they left for ward and consecrating the swords.
Another peculiarity that Eyup Sultan Türbesi brought to the settlement was that many Ottomans wished to be buried there in order to be close to the saint who lay entombed. The result was that a number of large cemeteries sprang up, which give the district its mystic quality. Eyup craftsmanship of the tombstones and the catalogue of inscriptions they bear are famous and good examples of the stone-carving art. At the same time, the cypress trees looming from among the graves seem to highlight the co-existence of life and death.

As well as the average man on the street, a large number of prominent public figures have chosen Eyup as their final resting place during both the Ottoman period and the days of the Republic.

Eyup Sultan Türbesi, which is perhaps one of the most celebrated sites of Eyup, draws vast crowds on religious feast days and public holidays. It is also place of pilgrimage for newly-weds and circumcision parties. But Eyup was also famed for a host of other things: The fishermen who sell their bountiful catch from the Golden Horn, its florists and dairies, shoreline cafes, toy tambourines, drums and whistles; the toy makers of Eyup would have been kept busy under the spiritual leadership of Eyup Sultan, who is believed to have adored children.
However, the advent of the industrial age at the end of the 19th century and rapid spread of shanty towns after the 1960's has more or less destroyed the traditional character of the district.

The Golden HornThe Golden Horn, a horn-shaped estuary, divides European side of Istanbul. One of the best natural harbors in the world, the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests were centered here. Today, lovely parks and promenades line the shores. In the setting sun, the water shines a golden color.

Golden Horn was an old trading point and popular shoreline residential area during the Byzantine period, it was largely inhabited by Jewish immigrants from Spain during the Ottoman period. The mixtures of Armenians, Greeks, Gypsies and Turks living along its shores reflected the city's colorful mosaic. Since 1880 the famed Cibali cigarette factory has been operating there, which today is renovated to house a private university.

During the Ottoman period, in the first half of 18th century, Golden Horn was very rich of tulip gardens and green parks where upscale people used to come to relax, and row with their boats at the romantic sunset.

With the neglect borne of a population explosion in the 1950's and ineffective zoning laws, the once pristine Golden Horn became a churning cesspool of grey city-sewage and industrial waste. Only in the 1980's did a much needed urban clean-up begin. Polluting factories were cleared and proper sewage needs met. Now, its shores green once again, lovely parks, promenades, and playgrounds greet visitors. The water glistens golden in the sun again, perhaps not as brightly as before, but one step nearer to what the poets once described as "Sadabad", or "place of bliss".
At Fener, a neighborhood midway up the Golden Horn, whole streets of old wooden houses and churches date from Byzantine times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides here. Eyup, a little further up, reflects the Ottoman style of vernacular architecture. Cemeteries sprinkled with dark cypress trees cover the hillsides. It is always busy here with pilgrims coming to the tomb of Eyup in the hope that their prayers will be granted. The Pierre Loti Cafe atop the hill overlooking the shrine is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility of the view having a traditional Turkish coffee or tea.

There was no bridge over the Golden Horn before the 19th century. Small boats provided transportation between the two shores. The first Galata Bridge, which connects present day Karaköy to Eminonü, was built in 1836, rebuilt in 1845, again in 1912, and lastly in 1993. The Unkapani (Atatürk) Bridge further up the Horn handles the flow of traffic between Beyoglu and Saraçhane. The third one over the Horn is called the Haliç Bridge.

Uskudar (Scutari)

Uskudar (Scutari)Üsküdar is located on the Anatolian side at the entrance to the Bosphorus. Historicaly Üsküdar was located between Salacak and Pasalimani neighborhoods, but it grew everyday like other districts of Istanbul. Today it stretches to Umraniye on the east, to Kadikoy in the south, and to Beykoz in the north.

Üsküdar was the third Muslim judgeship belonging to Istanbul, besides Galata and Eyüp. It represents Anatolian Turco-lslam tradition. First of all, Üsküdar is geographically Anatolian. It is located on the borders of Anatolia which is drawn by the waters of the Bosphorus. It also is Anatolian demographically. The Muslim people, who came from Anatolia, resided in Üsküdar after it was conquered by sultan Orhan Gazi in 1352. Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror speeded the immigration from Anatolia to Üsküdar. The famous Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi, who lived in the 17th century, wrote that there were 70 Muslim neighborhoods in Üsküdar and most of the people had emigrated from Anatolia. He also stated that there were 11 Greek and Armenian, one Jewish, and no French neighborhoods in Üsküdar. This gave an ethnic and culturally homogeneous structure to Üsküdar.

Üsküdar is the section of Istanbul which has the strongest connection with Anatolia. It was the center of trade with Anatolia until the railway was installed in the 19th century with Haydarpasa train station. It was also the starting point for trade with Iran and Armenia. All Armenian and Iranian merchants arrived in Üsküdar with their trade caravans. Therefore Üsküdar became a trade town in the 16th and 17th centuries.

In spite of this fact, Üsküdar was always quiet and modest. Its streets and houses were nice and well maintained. Karacaahmet cemetery, the oldest and largest Muslim cemetery in Istanbul, is located in Üsküdar. There are many cypress trees in the cemetery, and with its vegetation it is more like a park than a cemetery.

Üsküdar is not only a point of separation where people live this life. Every year the people going to Mecca for pilgrimage were sent from Üsküdar. The Surre Alayi which brought the presents of the Ottoman Sultans to Mecca and Medina governors were sent from Üsküdar as well. Therefore, Üsküdar is used to separations; it sends both the dead and Hajj candidates with ceremony.

Üsküdar is the first part of Istanbul to be conquered by Ottomans. It was the messenger of the big conquest. It was separated from Istanbul for one century and one year. but in 1453 Üsküdar was once again united with Istanbul.

The Marmara Sea was not the cause of separation, but means of the transportation. When you travel from this sea to Üsküdar, Kizkulesi welcomes you first. This beautiful tower is one of the beauties and symbols of Üsküdar. When you reach the shore, another beauty welcomes you; this one is the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, built by great architect Sinan who also built the Süleymaniye Mosque. The Sultan Ahmed III fountain, which beautifies the Üsküdar square, catches your attention, too. The beauties of Üsküdar captivates you even before reaching the shore, and they surround you afterwards.

Üsküdar has changed today, like the rest of Istanbul. Most notable is that nothing remains today of the shore-side palaces which were built in the 18th century. Its green hills have become cement blocks loosing its traditional architectural characteristics. Just a few of the street with wooden houses with balconies and bow-windows are still alive. But regardless of everything, Üsküdar has kept its quiet Anatolian atmosphere.

There are regular passenger ferries to Üsküdar from Besiktas and Karaköy.

İSTANBUL Fatih Mosque and Complex (Fatih Camii Külliyesi)

The Fatih Mosque has a lovely interior like many Turkish mosques, but the primary importance of this mosque is its illustrious permanent resident, Fatih Mehmet the Conqueror.

The current mosque and surrounding complex were constructed in 1771 over the rubble of the original that collapsed in the earthquake of 1766. The original Fatih Mosque and complex (külliye) were built on the orders of Sultan Fatih Mehmet, who conquered Constantinople in 1453.

The Imperial Fatih Mosque was constructed between 1462 and 1470. Wanting a monument more spectacular than that of Ayasofya (Hagia Sofia), the sultan cut off the hands of the architect when the Fatih Mosque failed to surpass the height of the church, despite its position atop the fourth of the seven hills of Istanbul.

The mosque complex included a caravansary, a hospital, several hamams, the kitchens, and a market, which combined to form a university that instructed up to 1,000 students at any given time.

The complex was restored by Bayezit II following an earthquake in 1509 but it was severely damaged in the 1766 earthquake. Except for the mihrab, the medreses (schools), and the inner courtyard, the damaged complex was demolished under Mustafa III and the new construction was completed in 1771. The Fatih Mosque that stands today has similarities to the classical mosques of the 16th century, with its tall central dome held by semi-domes on all four sides. The decorative painting of the interior reflects the baroque influence on 18th century Ottoman architecture.

The tombs of Mehmet II and his wife are located in front of the mihrab wall.

The Fatih Mosque was built over the site of the Church of the Holy Apostles. Reused building materials from the church, such as column pieces and stone blocks of the foundations, have been identified in the courtyard of the Fatih Mosque.

Each Wednesday the area around the mosque is filled with a busy street market.

İSTANBUL Camlica Hill (Çamlıça Tepesi)

The great Camlica Hill stands about four kilometers east of Uskudar and can be reached by car. It is the taller of the twin peaks of Mount Bulgurlu, the highest point in the vicinity of Istanbul, 267 meters above sea level. It has a small teahouse in the midst of the pine grove which gives the peak its name.

Camlica Hill Istanbul Turkey

From here, there is an absolutely magnificent view, which makes it well worth the climb. In the morning when the sun is still easterly one has a panoramic sight of the whole city, the Bosphorus almost as far as the Black Sea, the Marmara Sea with the Princes Islands, and behind that, the great snow covered ridge of Uludag, the Bithynian Olympus. Toward evening the sun sets almost directly behind Istanbul and its domes and minarets are silhouetted against the flaming western sky like a splendid stage drop.



Especially in the spring are these hills and valleys most beautiful, for everywhere is a profusion of the most varied wildflowers and many unusual birds.

Kadiköy, Istanbul, Turkey

Kadiköy, on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus just south of Haydarpasa, was known in Byzantine times as Chalcedon.

Today it's a bustling commercial and transportation center, and residential district of the megalopolis of Istanbul.

Most visitors pass through Kadiköy on their way to somewhere else, usually via the Kadiköy ferry docks just south of Haydarpasa Station across a cove.

From Kadiköy, ferries cross the Bosphorus regularly to Karaköy (Galata) and Eminönü at the mouth of the Golden Horn. Some ferries stop at Haydarpasa Station on the trip to or from Kadiköy.

The voyage is among Istanbul's greatest value-for-money pleasures: a 40-minute intercontinental cruise for less than YTL2!

There are both the traditional ferries operated by IDO, and the smaller private ferries operated by the TurYol cooperative. The docks are a few hundred meters apart.

Another landmark in Kadiköy is the Kozyatagi Business Center, about 6 km east of the Kadiköy ferry docks. From here, Havas airport buses travel to Sabiha Gökçen Airport, farther to the east.

Istanbul

Istanbul- Constantinople- Byzanz. The city on two continents, situated at the Bosphorus between Marmarasea and black sea. Officially 9 million, unofficially 14 million inhabitants. Border between Asia and Europe, between Orient and Occident. Mosques and bazaars, western Lifestyle and deep tradition.
The reason for our 4-day trip in Istanbul was the eye operation of Vivien (see link below). Since this time, she sees again without eyeglasses and contact lens, like an eagle!Already on the way from the airport to the city we were fascinated by the fairy taleful silhouette with their innumerable domes and minarets. Again and again we drove along on parts of the 21 km long and very massive city-wall.

The Bosphorus, the strait between the Asiatic and the European continent is connected by a 1 km long freely floating bridge and offers apart from the awful traffic, beautiful views on the two banks of the Bosphorus. A trip by ship or a long walk along the banks, you should not miss.

Sultanahmet Mosque, better known as the blue mosque is decorated with blue tiles and with its 6 minarets, instead of the usual 4, it belongs to the most famous buildings beside the Hagia Sophia. During the prayer hours hundreds of Muslims come here to pray. It is an impressing experience.

Beside the old traditional quarters, Istanbul especially around the Taksim place, offers also a completely modern, western city centre with pedestrian including the usual, international Shops and restaurants. Only the historical streetcar reminds of the old time. Off this mile you can find also traditional restaurants and tea gardens with a various offer of the local food.

A further dominating building is the Galata tower at the northern end of the Galatabridge. At the top you have a spectacular view over the whole city. In the evening there is a folklore dance- and dinnershow, but the price is very, very expensive € 60 per person. We did not do it.

You can see the traditional lifestyle of Istanbul at its best by strolling at the Grande Bazaar. Its gigantic extents of nearly 31 hectars and over 3000 shops in labyrinth lanes and hundreds of domes which are covered with lead and windows, make the visit to a very special experience. Spices, gold, carpets, ceramics, copper- and brassware, leather goods, everything is present and loudly offered by the sellers. Trade and bargain are the typically oriental style there and for us fascinating again and again.


Topkapi Palace, the old Sultan-Palace lies in the midst of a beautiful park and belongs to the most important objects of interest in Istanbul. The view from here to the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the city is spectacular. Above all we were fascinated from the architecture and the equipment of the most different rooms, halls and pavilions. A fairy tale palace as from thousands and one night. We forgot the time by looking at all and photographing so we missed the closing time at the Harem at 4 o´clock . Its gates were already closed and we had bought the tickets in vain.


Beside the western life-style there are still the old traditions alive. You can see masked women and traditional craftsmen everywhere in the streets. The Social structure is always dominated by men.



Our trip to Istanbul was not only successful in reference of the eye operation. The whole city with the different ways of life, the impressing buildings and the bustling street life has fascinated us at all. Istanbul is worth visiting, in any case.

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The Blue Masjid (Sultan Ahmet Camii), Istanbul, Turkey

Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), Istanbul

The cascading domes and six slender minarets of the Sultanahmet Mosque (popularly known as the Blue Mosque) dominate the skyline of Istanbul.
In the 17th century, Sultan Ahmet I wished to build an Islamic place of worship to rival the Hagia Sophia, and the mosque named for him is the impressive result. The two great architectural achievements stand next to each other in Istanbul's main square, and it is up to visitors to decide which is more impressive.

History
The Blue Mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I as a rival to Hagia Sophia and designed by architect Mehmet Aga (Aga's unfortunate predecessor was fired - i.e., executed).
Construction on the mosque began in 1609 and took seven years. Sultan Ahmet died only a year after the completion of his masterpiece, at the age of 27. He is buried just outside the mosque with his wife and three sons.
What to See
One of the most notable features of the Blue Mosque is visible from far away: its six minarets. This is very unique, as most mosques have four, two or just one minaret. According to one account, the Sultan directed his architect to make gold (altin) minarets, which was misunderstood as six (alti) minarets.
Whatever the origins of the unique feature, the six minarets caused quite a scandal, as the mosque in Mecca also had six minarets. The problem was solved by adding a seventh minaret to Mecca's mosque.
The main, west entrance is beautifully decorated and should not be missed, However, to preserve the mosque's sanctity, non-worshippers are required to use the north entrance, off the Hippodrome. Hanging from this gate are symbolic chains that encourage everyone, even the sultan on horseback, to bow his or her head upon entering.
The interior's high ceiling is lined with about 20,000 blue tiles that give the mosque its popular name. Fine examples of 16th-century Iznik design, the tiles feature flowers, trees and abstract patterns.

Hagia Sophia History

Hagia Sophia was first named "Megale Ekklesia" (The Great Church) as it was the largest church in Constantinople (Istanbul today). The historian Socrates indicated that the church was named Sophia during the reign of Emperor Constantius. The name given to the church symbolized the second divine attribute of the Holy Trinity. Originally, Sophia, which means "Holy Wisdom", was a name given to Christ by 4th century theologians.For centuries it stood at the heart of two of the world's great religions: To Christians it was Hagia Sophia, Church of the Holy Wisdom, mother church of the Orthodox faith, and of the thousand year old Byzantine Empire. To Muslims, it became Ayasofya Camii, Mosque of Holy Wisdom and jewel of Istanbul. Today its one of the two most important Museums in Turkey. In the words of 5th Century Byzantine historian Procopius; "The dome is a work admirable and terrifying... Seeming not to rest on the masonry below it, but to be suspended by a chain of gold from the height of the sky.... When one enters this building to pray, he feels that it is not the work of human power....The soul, lifting itself to the sky, realizes that here God is close by, and that He takes delight in this, His chosen home."
In A.D. 326, Constantinople (Istanbul Today) was laid out on the shores of the Bosporus by Emperor Constantine. Thirty years later, his successor built its first great church (Hagia Sophia). In 404 AD the church was destroyed by mobs set into action when Emperor Arcadius sent Archbishop John Chrysostom into exile for his criticism of the Empress. In 415 AD Emperor Theodosius II rebuilt the church. It too fell victim to a rampaging mob at the time of Monophysite heretics in 532 AD. The new Emperor Justinian, firm defender of orthodoxy, made short work of the howling heretics and ordered that construction begin on a new basilica such as had never been seen before. The construction work lasted from 532 to 537; The gigantic structure was modeled loosely on the Roman Pantheon. Measuring 220 feet by 250 feet along its main floor, it was laid out as a rectangle, at whose center was a square. Soaring 180 feet above the square was a dome supported by four massive pendentives on equally massive piers. At the east and west ends of the dome square were two have domes serving as the apse and entrance bay. The engineering feat was even more incredible considering that only brick, mortar, and stone were used. Although the earlier Romans knew how to make concrete, these Eastern builders did not. Justinian embellished the interior with riches. Four acres of gold mosaics shimmered from the ceiling, and multicolored marble gleamed from the floors, columns, and wall panels. The finest and rarest materials from the four corners of the empire were brought to Constantinople to be used in the construction of Hagia Sophia. The prophyry columns previously taken to Rome from an Egyptian temple in Heliopolis, ivory and gold icons and ornaments from ancient temples in Ephesus, Kizikos and Baalbek were among them. The construction was completed in a very short time. Less than six years after work on it began, Justinian's monument to Christendom was completed.
On August 15th 553, January 14th 557 and May 7th 559, earthquakes destroyed the eastern side of the dome and much of it collapsed. Because the initial architects, Anthemius and Isodorus, were no longer living, the latter's nephew, Isidorus the Younger, was given the task of rebuilding. Isidorus increased the height of the dome by 2.65 meters and built buttresses in the form of towers to support the dome.
On February 9th 869, during the reign of Emperor Basil I (867-886), an earthquake damaged the western side of the building. It was repaired in 870. On October 25th 986, a violent earthquake resulted in the collapse of the western apse and caused partial damage to the dome. The church had to be closed until the architect Tridat finished repairing it in 994.
In 1204, knights of the Fourth Crusade marched on the Byzantine Empire's capital city, stripping it and Hagia Sophia so remorselessly that a chronicler called it the most awesome plunder "since the creation of the world." When Rome's hegemony ended 57 years later, the Church of the Holy Wisdom was devoid of glittering wealth. Bulky buttresses were built to shore it up, but its days of glory, and those of Constantinople, were drawing to a close.
During the Palaeologian age, Emperor Michael VIII (1261-1282) had Hagia Sophia repaired by the architect Ruchas, and the buttresses in the south-west were added at that time. In 1317, during the reign of Emperor Andronicus II, the north-eastern and south-western walls were reinforced on the exterior by pyramid-shaped buttresses. In 1348, the eastern half of the dome collapsed and was afterwards repaired. In the first half of the 15th century, travelers and other sources described Hagia Sophia as being in a state of disrepair. In 1453, Sultan Mohammed II massed the Ottoman army in front of the city. After a 53-day siege, the Byzantine Empire's great capital capitulated, and the conqueror marched into town and directly to Hagia Sophia - and declared Eastern Christianity's cornerstone a Mosque; For almost 500 years after it remained a Mosque; during which necessitated by Islamic architectural standards (see Plan / Section), changes were made as follow:
At the beginning, the Turks preserved the frescoes and mosaic figures of Christian saints which decorated the walls. However, in the 16th century, these were completely covered by plaster, since the Islamic code forbids figural representation. its mosaics whitewashed to hide the "idolatrous" figures of humans. Quarnic inscriptions were placed in the four corners beneath the dome; inscribed on rounded plates of 7.50 m diameter by Kazasker Mustafa Ýzzet Efendi, a famous Ottoman calligrapher. The names of: Allah, Muhammed, Omar, Usman, Ali, Hasan, Abu Bakir and Hüseyin are inscribed there.
Four minarets were erected at the corners of the exterior perimeter; a gilded bronze crescent replaced the large metal cross crowning the basilica. The Mosque of Holy Wisdom enjoyed a place of high regard among devotees of Islam.
Sultan Mehmed II "the Conqueror" built an altar (Mihrab) in the east, since the apse should be in the direction of Mecca and the brick minaret on the south-east corner of the edifice. Sultan Bayezid (1484-1512) added a minaret on the north-east corner.
The famous Turkish architect Sinan, built the two minarets in front of the Mosque during the reign of Sultan Murad III (1574-1535). Murad III also had water urns of the Hellenistic period (300 BC) brought to the mosque from Bergama.

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia, Istanbul

Hagia Sophia (Turkish: Ayasofya, Greek: Αγία Σοφία; "Holy Wisdom", Latin: Sancta Sophia or Sancta Sapientia) is a former patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, now a museum in Istanbul, Turkey. Famous in particular for its massive dome, it is considered the epitome of Byzantine architecture. It was the largest cathedral ever built in the world for nearly a thousand years, until the completion of the Medieval Seville Cathedral in 1520.The current building was originally constructed as a church between A.D. 532 and 537 on the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian, and was in fact the third Church of the Holy Wisdom to occupy the site (the previous two had both been destroyed by riots). It was designed by two architects, Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles. The Church contained a large collection of holy relics and featured, among other things, a 50 foot (15 m) silver iconostasis. It was the patriarchal church of the Patriarch of Constantinople and the religious focal point of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly 1000 years.In 1453, Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Turks and Sultan Mehmed II ordered the building to be converted into the Ayasofya Mosque[1]. The bells, altar, iconostasis, and sacrificial vessels were removed, and many of the mosaics were eventually plastered over. The Islamic features - such as the mihrab, the minbar, and the four minarets outside - were added over the course of its history under the Ottomans. It remained as a mosque until 1935, when it was converted into a museum by the Republic of Turkey.For almost 500 years the principal mosque of Istanbul, Hagia Sophia served as a model for many of the Ottoman mosques such as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque of Istanbul), the Şehzade Mosque, the Süleymaniye Mosque, and the Rüstem Pasha Mosque.Although it is sometimes referred to as Saint Sophia (Greek for wisdom), the Greek name in full is Ναός τῆς Ἁγίας τοῦ Θεοῦ Σοφίας, Church of the Holy Wisdom of God, and it was dedicated to the Holy Wisdom of God rather than a specific saint named Sophia.